Josh Babetski : Quixotic Bravado

So the first gadget casualty of 2009 seems to be my Xbox 360. It was 3 years old. I bought it, along with 4 others on launch day on November 22nd, 2008. I sold the other four at a handsome profit on eBay, which meant mine was free.

Cause of death: the dreaded red ring of death. Conveniently for Microsoft, this happened 6 weeks after the warranty extension for the RRoD issue they got so much bad press for had expired.

Like any gadget-lover, it’s tough to lose a device that you aren’t retiring because you’ve upgraded to something better. On the upside, when I replace it, I’ll get a newer version that’s more energy efficient, built better, and has a HDMI port. Unfortunately for Microsoft though, I haven’t been using my 360 much at all lately. It doesn’t play Blu-Ray DVDs, the Netflix integration is nice, but the selection is still lacking, and I have Rock Band 2 for my Playstation 3. There hasn’t been much in the way of any compelling games for it lately either. So that replacement may just wait until there’s something out there worth playing on it.

But this post is for you who will or already have had your 360 go down in a blaze of red blinking lights. In trying to save my doomed Xbox, I came across a very helpful post of error codes and how to pull out useful info out as your console gasps and wheezes its way to the great recycle bin in the sky. Maybe it’ll be some help to you. I found it in a post on Xbox-Scene called: “Error Codes Explained, If you have an error code, read this!” Very useful stuff, and I recommend you go there for more information, especially the part of getting codes out of the lights on the front of the console and what they mean. Credit for the information goes entirely to the members of that forum. I’ve copied part of the error code how-to below:

Secondary Error Codes

The specific type of hardware failure can be determined by a “hidden” error code

• Turn the xbox 360 on, and wait till the 3 red lights are flashing.
• Press and hold the sync up button (the small white one), while holding that button press the eject button.
• The LEDs will now blink the first number in the code (as described below).
  Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the second number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the third number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the forth number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will go back to the 3 red flashing lights.

You should be able to determine the difference between the 3 flashing lights and the error code lights by the rate in which they flash.

Here is how you interpret the LEDs to get the code number:

• All four lights flashing - 0
• One light flashing - 1
• Two Lights flashing - 2
• Three lights flashing - 3

Codes

0001

power supply problem

0002

Network Interface problem

0003

Power problem could be the PSU could be the GPU/CPU, somehow the console isn’t getting clean power from the power supply.

0010

There is a problem with the Southbridge Chip usually dealing with how it connects to the mainboard (cold solder joint/bridged solder joints)

0011

CPU over heating - If you are receiving this error after disassembling your console make sure to all 8 of the heatsinc screws are tightened securely to the board/heatsink holes.

0012

GPU over heating -ensure your x-clamps are installed properly.

0013

RAM over heating

0020

GPU Malfunction, similar to error 0102

0021

This can be caused by two completely different things either:

A. DVD Drive Time out - Can be caused by problems with a firmware flash. This is also speculated to sometime be caused by a problem with the southbridge chipset on the motherboard based on how it connects to the DVD drive.

B. GPU error, generally caused by a poor connection to the mainboard (cold solder joints/bridged solder joints) See error 102 for more information

0022

CPU error, generally caused by a poor connection to the mainboard (cold solder joints/bridged solder joints). This can also be triggered by an error with the TSOP.

0023

(not yet known)

0030

Problem with temperature control

0031

(not yet known)

0032

(not yet known)

0033

(not yet known)

0100

(not yet known)

0101

(not yet known)

0102

Error in the “Digital Backbone” (CPU/GPU/RAM), this is usually caused by a cold solder joint between the GPU and the mainboard. There are two theories to fixing this one deals with the “X” clamps that hold down the chips. The other involves re-Heating the chips. DO NOT attempt either of these if your console is still under warranty. If your console is still under warranty return it to the store where it was purchased or call MS to have it replaced.

0103

GPU Error this is usually caused by bridged solder points where the GPU connects to the mainboard. see error 0102 for more detailed information

0110

Ram error, this is caused by a cold or bridged solder joint on one of the Ram chips.

…

0200

(not yet known)

…

1000

Kernel can’t be launched/signature in NAND Flash chip is broken! It could be possible after bad update. This might also be caused by a bad SATA cable.

1001

DVD Drive Error, either incorrect firmware or DVD Time out.

1002

DVD Drive Error, likely a firmware error, drive can eject, read, and write under windows but errors on console, replacing original firmware should fix issue.

1003

Hard Drive Error… It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it

1010

Hard Drive Error, Can be caused buy a corrupt or missing eProm. See also E68 above

1011

(not yet known)

1012

(not yet known)

1013

(not yet known) possibly a dashboard update error

1020

(not yet known)

1021

(not yet known)

1022

There is high chance it’s a scaler chip problem (the “ANA” or “HANA” chip near the AV cable connection) it can also be caused by a faulty AV cable so check that first. In some cases it is a problem with the GPU and may be repairable by doing the x-clamp replacement (see error 0102)

1023

DVD drive not connected, connect DVD drive to boot

1030

This error deals with the Ethernet port’s controller chip, a dead chip may not cause the error but removing the Ethernet controller chip does, it may also be caused by other Ethernet related problems.

1031

(not yet known)

1032

(not yet known)

1033

it could be cpu/gpu related or it could be psu related, not much info is known for sure.

1100

Wrong LDV version in NAND Flash. This is in new dashboard. You have the update but haven’t R3T6 resistor. You can:

Downgrade to old dashboard, solder back the resistor and then update your xbox

If you have CPU Key, get current NAND Flash image and fix LDV (just add 1 up to latest kernel). (see error E80)

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Over the weekend I took a crack at designing a custom game type and map variant in Halo 3.

For those unfamiliar with this, the game contains a map editor called “Forge.” This allows you to move and manipulate many of the items on the map, but not the base map itself. There is also a “Custom Games” function to configure game options and settings like health, gravity, ammo, etc. Put the two together, you can make your own game variant and share with others.

My first effort at this I’m calling “zigzag boom.” It’s a symmetrical map variant of “Foundry,” one of the new maps which can be almost completely cleared out. My base map was actually derived from another customization of a variation called “Grifball” by BurnieBurns of Red Vs Blue. I used it because the author did a great job walling off the map to make it a clean rectangular space; it saved me a bunch of time.

The map is set-up for Capture the Flag or Assault games. I took a nod from the Unreal Tournament games we used to play at the office and set-up the map for low-gravity and instant kills. The point was to make a map you had to think about moving around in instead of a spray and pray map. Here’s the map overview as it stands now:

• Players start of with shotguns only. This is because long range weapons would create a game of dodgeball with players just standing at opposite ends of the “hallways” shooting at each other from afar.
• The armor is white and can’t be killed for 5 seconds after spawning. They also can’t cause damage in that time either. This was to prevent spawn camping and to give the player time to get out of the way since it’s instakill.
• There’s one set of rockets at the center of the map but it doesn’t spawn right away and there’s only two shots in it. This is to prevent rocket hoarding.
• There’s two custom power-ups which make the player unable to be shot for a brief period. I wanted it to be long enough to allow players a shot to making it tho the other end of the map, but not so far they could score without being stopped. The player’s armor turns gold to make this more readily visible. These also do not spawn right away, encouraging players to get into the action at game start instead of running for power-ups and power weapons
• The flag/bomb carrier has slower speed and turns a nice zombie green. This forces the rest of the team to work toward protecting the carrier.
• I’m old school, the team’s flag must be at home for them to score
• There’s shield doors at key locations to force close combat. Smart use of the environment will keep a player alive.
• The environment can also kill a player. Around every corner, power-up, hiding spot, and object to interact with, there’s apt to be something that will explode and get you, all set to respawn quickly. So you can hide in that storage container, but beware that a wall of fusion cores may appear behind you. Shooting first may not save either player.
• For CTF games, a team only has to return the flag, not retrieve it as well.
• If the flag or bomb is away, players trying to recover will respawn in the middle of the map, giving them a realistic shot at recovery.
• Grenades are very limited. Again, this map is about getting up close and personal. Besides, the large amount of explosive items on the map make it risky anyway.
• I had gravity hammers, then took them out, now will put them back. Using the hammers made it easy too easy to go over instead of around. After feedback from playing with friends, I’m going to just raise the wall height in certain places.

As of this writing the maps are at version 1 on my Bungie File Share. Over the holiday break I’ll look to update them. It’s still a work in progress, but so far, so good. While I don’t expect an award for “best map,” I found it a very good exercise in learning how to adjust the environment and player options to get very different kinds of game play. It’s given me some additional perspective and ideas on the cause and effect of designs. Very applicable.

Hope you like the map and game variant. Please feel free to send feedback.